Climbing Elbrus from the north side descent to the south - Elbrus traverse
Climbing the highest point in Europe - Mount Elbrus from the north
Climbing the highest point in Europe - Mount Elbrus from the north
When choosing a program, you need to take into account that in order to climb Elbrus from the north side, you need to be in excellent physical shape. If you are not sure about your physical condition at the moment, it is better to give preference to the Elbrus climbing program from the south.
Elbrus is the highest point in Russia and Europe, a huge two-headed massif located in the Caucasus Mountains.
Climbing Elbrus is not technically difficult and is accessible to anyone with good physical fitness.
This is a great opportunity to get the first climbing experience. The guide accompanying the group will teach
necessary mountaineering skills that will be useful to you in further ascents.
Day 1. Arrival at Mineralnye Vody airport. Transfer to Essentuki. Hotel accommodation.
Arrival at Mineralnye Vody airport. Meeting
participants. Briefing at the hotel. Checking and, if necessary, renting equipment necessary for climbing. Overnight at the hotel in Essentuki.
Day 2. Transfer to the base camp at Emmanuel's Glade. Accommodation in
shelter.
Transfer to the Base Camp at the Emmanuel glade at the foot of the northern slopes of Elbrus, from where the first expedition to Elbrus started in 1829. General Emmanuel set up camp and watched the ascent of his group through a spyglass. In the middle of a meadow strewn with flowers, the picturesque river Kyzylkol runs.
The journey takes about 3 hours along the picturesque road of the Northern Elbrus region.
Accommodation in the shelter of the Base Camp. Free time can be spent trekking to the springs of Dzhilysu and the Sultan waterfall.
Overnight at the camp shelter.
Day 3 Acclimatization walk to Stone Mushrooms or to the mountain
Crown.
The first day of acclimatization, with a moderate climb.
In total, the exit will take 5-6 hours in both directions, up to a height of 3100 m.
The purpose of the exit will be determined by the guide on the spot - depending on the weather and the physical condition of the participants.
Day 4 Acclimatization transfer to the high altitude camp 3700 m
Today we will climb to the high-altitude camp at an altitude of 3700 m, and then go down to the base camp for rest. It makes sense during this exit to throw some of the equipment and clothes to this height, 3700 m, and leave it in the camp huts.
The ascent takes 5-6 hours, the descent lightly - half the time of the ascent. The descent can be carried out with a visit to the "Stone Mushrooms" - a local attraction.
Day 5 Departure to the high-altitude camp at an altitude of 3700 m. Accommodation in camp huts.
Today we have to climb to the high-altitude camp, where yesterday we made an acclimatization exit and made a drop. Accommodation in one of the huts of the camp. The food here is excellent. The food is prepared by the chefs. Rest, night in the camp.
Day 6 Acclimatization hike up to the Lenz rocks (4700m).
Ascent to the lower part of the Lenz rocks - several rocky ridges stretching along the northern slope, from a height of 4700 m to 5100 m, under the Eastern peak.
During the exit, you will have to pass along the glacier, which is replete with cracks. Therefore, before leaving. The guide accompanying the group will read a briefing on the technique of walking on glaciers, tell you how to walk on crampons correctly, and also form ligaments and tell you exactly how to do it.
works. In bundles, you will have to climb to a height of 4700 m.
Day 7 Rest day.
Day of rest. Today you need to have a good rest before the upcoming ascent. After breakfast, the guide accompanying the group will conduct snow and ice lessons, during which participants will gain the knowledge and skills necessary to climb the
Elbrus. And also you have to learn how to handle some climbing equipment - an ice ax, crampons. The guide will also tell you about the nuances of climbing Elbrus. Early dinner.
Day 8 Climbing and crossing to the south side.
Early rise, nightly breakfast. Exit to the summit. We take only the most necessary things, we will first discuss what exactly. The decision to climb the Western or Eastern summit is made by the guide accompanying the group. Solution
depends on several factors - the weather, the condition of the participants and the readiness of the participants, the condition of the glaciers on the day of the ascent.
The ascent takes place in bundles, which are formed by guides accompanying the group. Bundles are needed to move on glaciers, replete with cracks in these places.
The ascent takes about 10-12 hours one way, then you need to be ready for the descent. Descent to the South. Here, from a height of 4700 m, you can use the services of a snowcat or snow bikes to get to the ski lift. On the lift we go down to the Azau valley, we are accommodated in the hotel. Hot shower and dinner at the restaurant.
Day 9 Reserve day for climbing or moving to Essentuki.
If, on the eve of the summit assault was canceled for various reasons (bad weather, group members not ready to climb), this day can be used as a spare and on the same day you need to move to Essentuki.
If everything goes according to plan, on this day the group moves to Essentuki, accommodation in a hotel, we expect things that will arrive from the north side, a walk around the city.
Day 10 Departure to Mineralnye Vody airport. Flight home.
Transfer from the hotel to the Mineralnye Vody airport. Flight home.
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September 02-09Date -
September 09-16Date
With the days of stay on the mountain - everything is clear. How is the transportation of things without a group to Kislovodsk? And also - what exactly you need to take with you on the ascent and what is a traverse?
During the assault on the summit, we take with us only what we need for the ascent - in fact, these are the clothes and equipment necessary for climbing Elbrus. All this will be worn by climbers.
In addition, you need to take the minimum necessary to change on the descent on the south side - sneakers, light pants, t-shirt, spare socks ...
NOTHING EXTRA! THE WEIGHT OF THE BACKPACK MUST NOT EXCEED 10 kg.
Naturally, on the spot, we will discuss what is worth taking with you and what should be left in the camp.
The ascent runs along the northern side of the eastern summit. Then, depending on which vertex the transition will pass through (western or eastern), a further path is selected. The traverse over the West Summit is a little longer and a little more difficult. Therefore, it makes sense to decide on the choice of the route on the spot, depending on the weather conditions, the condition of the group members, the condition of the slope on the day of ascent.
The remaining things from the assault camp (3750 m) are lowered down by paid porters. The things that we will leave at the base camp (and there will definitely be such) - they are waiting for the descent of porters with a group load from the upper camp, and all this is loaded into the car together. Then all this junk is loaded into a car and transported to Kislovodsk. In Kislovodsk, we meet with all our belongings when we move from the southern Elbrus region, after the transition.
After climbing to the top, according to the plan, on the same day we need to go down to the valley from the south side. We go down to the ski lift, located on the south side, at an altitude of 3840 m. This must be done before it closes, before 16:00. Therefore, if we do not have time, we can use the services of a snowcat or snowmobile to make it faster and easier.
After descending to the valley of the South Elbrus region, we settle for the night at the hotel. We move to Essentuki the next day.
In case the group fails to go to the south side, we consider the option of descending back to the north.
It's okay, this practice also happens. It is also possible to split the group for various reasons - part goes south, part descends back to the north. And in this case, the program is feasible. My experience
conducting such programs allows you to provide all options for execution.
- Included in the program
- Services of Written E., as a guide accompanying the group and organizer, ensuring the logistics of the program.
- Hotel accommodation: in Kislovodsk 2 nights; in the village of Cheget in the south of Elbrus, after the transition - 1 night.
- Transfer from Essentuki to the Base Camp
Northern Elbrus region.
- Transfer to Essentuki from the South Elbrus region,
after climbing and crossing to the south side.
- Accommodation and meals at the Base Camp, 3 or 4 nights.
- Accommodation and meals in a high-altitude camp, 3 or 4 nights.
- Necessary public equipment for climbing Elbrus and crossing to the south side (rope, ice drills).
- Payment for the cable car to descend into the valley to the south
- Not included in the program
- Extra nights in hotels outside the program schedule.
- Additional nights in the camps - base and assault,
outside the program schedule.
- Porters. The number of porters is determined on the spot,
in fact, based on the amount of cargo the participants have.
Price = 200 rubles per 1 kg.
***See below for more information about porters.
- Payment for a snowmobile or a snowcat for the descent from the south side,
if necessary.
- Meals in Kislovodsk - lunches and dinners.
- Dinner and lunch in the village of Cheget, after switching to
south side.
- thermal underwear;
- thin fleece sweater or shirt (extra layer);
- thick fleece jacket or down sweater;
- windproof and waterproof jacket and trousers (it is better to use membrane materials);
- down jacket (required!);
- warm hat;
- climbing boots designed for climbing above 5000 m. It is strongly recommended to have double
boots.
- leggings for boots - to protect against snow getting inside;
- warm modern synthetic socks;
- gloves. An excellent choice of gloves made from Winblock or Windstopper materials;
- mittens "upper" (additional layer) - must be worn on top of gloves - protect from wind and severe frost;
- a mask that protects the face from wind and frost (Balaklava);
- trekking shoes - boots or sneakers.
- climbing safety system, convenient for walking - "gazebo";
- 3 carabiners with clutch;
- trekking poles;
- ice ax;
- cats;
- sunglasses and / or ski mask with UF - at least 3;
- sunscreen (protection 50+);
- headlamp;
- a backpack with a volume of at least 60 liters.
- thermos with a volume of at least 0.7 l;
- sleeping bag with comfort temperature -5`С;
- a mat for a sleeping bag - for spending the night in shelters.
Of course, if you buy everything you need to climb Elbrus, you can spend a lot of money, because clothes and equipment are not cheap.
Therefore, some positions can be rented on the spot, in the Elbrus region.
For rent, you can choose from almost everything you need:
- climbing boots
- cats,
- down jacket
- ice ax,
- Gore-Tex pants,
- climbing system,
- Gore-Tex jacket,
- trekking poles
- gloves,
- Sunglasses,
- mittens,
- ski mask
- shoe covers for shoes,
- sleeping bag,
- assault backpack,
- headlamp.
An opportunity to visit the highest point of Russia and Europe.
Approach to the expedition style of climbing - with throws and acclimatization exits.
The opportunity to get the first experience of climbing a real big mountain, under the guidance of an experienced guide.
Obtaining the first climbing skills that will be useful in future ascents.
Acquaintance with real glaciers and snow fields of the Elbrus massif.
Stone Mushrooms are natural stone sculptures shaped like giant mushrooms. A very picturesque place.
The German airfield is a wide field located on the way to the high-altitude camp from the base camp, located at an altitude of approximately 3000 m.
Bathing in natural narzan springs breaking out to the surface of the earth here.
Transport
Transfer from the Mineralnye Vody airport to the hotel in Pyatigorsk and when moving from the South Elbrus region to Kislovodsk:
- passenger car - for a group of up to 3 people;
- minivan - for a group of up to 6 people;
- minibus - for a group of more than 6 people
Transfer from Pyatigorsk to the Base Camp at the Emmanuel glade - cross-country vehicles. The size of the car depends on the number of people in the group.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT PORTERS AND RATRUCK
When moving from the Base Camp to the assault camp, groups, as a rule, rarely turn to the services of porters for
lifting things. The fact is that we have an acclimatization day beforehand, which can be used
for throwing some things into the assault camp. Thus, we divide the cargo into two parts, excluding heavy
backpacks. Throw things in two stages or resort to the services of porters - the choice is yours.
When moving to the south of Elbrus, in the northern assault camp there will be some things that will need to be lowered to the transfer to be sent to Kislovodsk.
The descent of things is carried out by porters. The cost depends on the quantity and weight of the junk, we determine on the spot after the fact.
COST OF CARGO TRANSFER = 200 rubles per 1 kg. Porter carries no more than 20 kg. The volume of things is also taken into account.
Practice shows that if you do not take anything extra, 5-7 kg of cargo goes down from a person to be sent to Kislovodsk.
INFORMATION ABOUT SNOWMOBILES AND RATRUKS FROM THE SOUTH SIDE.
After climbing, when moving to the south side, we need to go down to the valley, where they will be waiting for us
rooms in the hotel. To do this, the group needs to go down to the ski lift no later than 15:00. Let's hurry. Sometimes, for
speed of descent and economy of forces, we use the services of a snowcat or snowmobiles that take tourists from
altitude 4700 m. The cost per person is about 3000 rubles.
The organizer of climbing programs for Mount Ararat in Turkey, the highest point of the South American continent - Aconcagua, climbing Mt. McKinley - the highest point of the North American continent. Experience in organizing expeditions and escorting groups during ascents of the "seven-thousanders" of the Pamir and Tien Shan, escorting groups of climbers in the Alps - on Mont Blanc and Matterhorn.
Conducting active-adventure programs in Southeast Asia for the whole family. He is fond of photography, rock climbing. Skiing.
Pyatigorsk is a 3* hotel located in the city center. There is also a 3* hotel in the Elbrus region. Accommodation in double rooms, breakfast included in the price;
In hotels - breakfast is included in the price of the program. Lunches and dinners on days of stay in hotels at your own expense. The cost of lunch is from 350 to 500 r per person, depending on the needs.
Meals in the shelter on the slopes of Elbrus - in equipped canteens. The group is fed by a cook. On the day of the ascent
Elbrus provides a lunch package, which includes several chocolate bars, an apple, juice, nuts.
Throughout the program, the group is accompanied by a guide from the company. On the day of climbing Elbrus, for safety reasons, in addition to the main guide, the group is accompanied by assistant guides, at the rate of 1 guide for 3 participants.
If in everyday life you use medicines, then it is better to have them with you. The guide will have a first aid kit with him.
standard set of drugs. It is also recommended to take out special insurance with an increased risk, which provides for helicopter evacuation from the slopes of Elbrus.
Climbing Elbrus can pose a danger to human health and life.
Guides accompanying the group throughout the program ensure safety only if the rules and safety precautions of all participants without exception are observed. Therefore, we recommend that you listen to the opinion and advice of the guides accompanying you.
During the ascent and in critical situations, participants must fully and unquestionably follow the recommendations and instructions of the guides. All actions and decisions on the route during the situation,
threatening the safety of the participants, are exclusively in the competence of the guides accompanying the group.
Our guides have with them the necessary group equipment, a GPS navigator with points on the route entered into it, a walkie-talkie to communicate with each other, a mobile phone with the numbers of the rescue services of the area, as well as
first aid kit for first aid.
Safety for us remains the main condition for fulfilling obligations to the client!
Weather and accommodation
During the summer season it is quite hot in the valley. The air can be heated up to +25-30°C. On Elbrus, the minimum
temperatures - morning and night hours, at altitudes from 5000 m, can drop to -20 ° С. During the summer
thunderstorms are possible. At the shelter, the temperature at night drops to -5°C, during the day - up to +20°C.
Weather is one of the fundamental success factors. In good weather, the overall climb percentage is quite
high The range of the concept of "good weather" in the summer, logically, is somewhat wider than in winter. In winter it is MUCH colder, the days are shorter, the winds are stronger. Temperatures on the slopes of Elbrus can drop to -40°C.
Pyatigorsk is a 3* hotel located in the city center. There is also a 3* hotel in the Elbrus region. Accommodation in double rooms
rooms, breakfast included in the price;
Base camp - located at an altitude of 2200 m. The camp is equipped with residential complexes designed for
accommodation for four or more people. It is possible to accommodate in stationary spacious tents of the base camp, 4 people per tent. Residential camps and tents are equipped with folding beds with mattresses. The camp has a bath, shower, washbasins, equipped toilets;
High-altitude camp - located on a rocky moraine at an altitude of 3700 m. The camp is represented by several
huts for 10 people or more. Almost all residential complexes are equipped stoves, which are used for heating rooms and for drying things. During the summer it is quite warm and
stoves are rarely used. Clothes can be dried outside on sun-warmed stones.
- Northern Elbrus region is a picturesque wild region.
- Mount Elbrus - the highest peak in Europe (5642m).
- Narzan sources of Dzhilysu - there are several of them. There are drinking springs, there are equipped small
swimming pools.
- Sultan Waterfall - located near the sources of Dzhilysu. Here, with a roar, from a 40-meter height, the river
Kyzylkol falls from a cliff.
- Lenz Rocks (4700 - 5100 m) - named after the Russian physicist of German origin Emil Lenz, who
took part in the first scientific expedition, which resulted in the first ascent of
Elbrus.
- Emanuel's Glade (Emanuel's stone, Emanuel's rock) are ruined rocks on the outskirts of a wide glade. On
on the stone of one of the rocks, climbers found a commemorative plaque carved right on the stone, at the base
expedition of General Emanuel, which resulted in the first ascent of Elbrus.
- The city of Essentuki is a famous resort town of the Caucasian Mineral Waters group, where
several nights, according to the program.
